Short answer
Dry first, then damp, never wet. Sweep, dust mop or vacuum with the beater bar off to pick up grit, then go over the floor with a barely damp microfiber mop and a cleaner made for finished wood. Skip soaking wet mops, household steam mops, oil soaps and wax, which can dull or damage the finish over time.
Why does dry cleaning come first?
Sand and grit act like sandpaper under shoes and chair legs. Picking them up before you mop keeps them from scratching the finish. A dry microfiber dust mop or a vacuum with a hard floor setting works well a few times a week in busy rooms.
What should you mop hardwood with?
Use a microfiber mop wrung out until it is barely damp and a cleaner made for finished wood floors. Standing water and steam can get into seams and swell the boards. Vinegar, oil soaps and wax-based products can leave a film that makes floors look dull and makes a future re-coat harder.
How do you protect hardwood in a Long Island winter?
Road salt and sand tracked in from December to March are tough on wood finishes. Put mats inside and outside every entry, take shoes off at the door, and wipe up salty puddles quickly. Felt pads under chairs and furniture help all year.
When is it time for a professional clean?
If your floor still looks cloudy or dull after a good cleaning, the film is probably built up on the finish. A professional deep clean and re-coat can remove it. See our Wood Floor Cleaning and Sealing service page, and our guide on restoring dull hardwood without sanding.
Do you also clean the tile and carpet in the house?
Yes. Many north shore homes have hardwood downstairs, tile in the kitchen and baths, and carpet in the bedrooms and on the stairs. We can look at all of it in one free in-home estimate.
Call (631) 428-1240 or use the Book a free estimate button.